Capsule Wardrobe - That Style Chick

Jeans, Jeans Everywhere – Eeeeek Help!

If I received a dollar every time a client begged for help with finding the right pair of jeans I would be a wealthy woman. Finding the right pair of jeans is a bit like being stuck at sea and dying of thirst! There are jeans everywhere but sometimes it feels near impossible to find a pair that work. If this is you, read on…

You can find denim anywhere in the world. A study suggests that soon more than half of the world will be wearing this textile[1] and the average American woman owns 8.3 items of denim[2]. I’m sure Aussie women are not far off that.

I’m like every other woman: a closet full of clothes, but nothing to wear. So I wear jeans.

Cameron Diaz

Jeans are the perfect “go to” for off duty dressing, a night out and even for work (see my recent post on business casual outfits). They’re so versatile that you can wear them with practically anything. Style them up, style them down. The question is, “How can I find the right style of jeans?”

The answer depends largely on your body shape, your signature style and of course, your budget. Jean fashion trends come and go. What’s in style right now SHOULD NOT be the primary driver when choosing the right pair of jeans. The “mom jean” is big right now. A fit that is synonymous with 90’s style, the mom jean has a more relaxed and slightly tapered leg, with a high mid-rise and rigid denim construction. Mom jeans are not right for everybody though. Are they right for you? Read on…

Mom jeans image: Shopbop.com

Pick the Right Size

You want to not just be able to fit into a pair of jeans, but also find one that does the right things for your body shape and make you look fabulous. My advice is to try jeans on before buying them, or buy from an online retailer that allows full refunds if the fit is not right. Size charts vary significantly between brands, and unless you’ve purchased the same brand and style before, you can’t be sure it will fit you properly. Sizing can even vary between different styles from the same brand! If the jeans fit right everywhere but the waist (you can fit several fingers between the waist line and your back), you should look for a different option. You cannot fix this with a belt (something I rarely say!).

Denim tends to stretch with wear, so if a pair feels a bit tight when you first try them on, they might be the right size for you. An easy test to determine if a pair is the right fit is simply squatting or sitting down on a chair – you should not feel discomfort around your knees and the jeans shouldn’t ‘squish’ your bum. Skinny fit jeans usually have a higher degree of elasticity, so you can skip this test when trying those on. Just make sure the stretchy fabric doesn’t give you unwanted lumps and bumps. You’ll also want to see whether they ride too low (no one wants a builder’s crack or a t-bar!).

You’re never too old to play. You’re only too old for low-rise jeans.

Ellen DeGeneres

Pick the Right Rise

When choosing jeans it helps to know your body shape. If you’re unsure of your body shape or want to validate your thinking, take the free in-app Style Consult in That Style Chick mobile app to find out your real body shape.

Most women should take the lead from Ellen and opt for mid or high rise jeans. There are exceptions though. It’s all about proportions. If you’re triangle (pear), inverted triangle (carrot) or hourglass, it’s likely that your waist is narrower than your hips and shoulders. As such, you want to look for a pair of jeans that sit as close to the narrowest part of your waist as possible. This is usually a high mid-rise or a high-rise.

Beware – if you have a bit of a tummy and you pick a cut too high, and/or you pick a thinner denim, it could accentuate your bulge. The catch is to find a rise that’s high enough to highlight your waist, yet smooths out a tummy rather than accentuating it. Sometimes a thicker denim is all it takes, other times you need to drop from a high-rise to a high mid-rise (or both).

For ovals (apples), you can follow this advice too. Opt for a high mid-rise that sits comfortably across your belly button area, without squeezing your stomach too much (no one wants a muffin top!)

Low-Rise

Images: Shopbop.com

Mid-Rise

High-Rise

If you have a rectangle (banana) shape, you could possibly benefit from a lower rise. Having jeans that sit closer to your hips than your waist can visually widen your hips and give you some feminine curves. You could also go for a mid-rise.

Regardless of your body shape, if your lower half is significantly longer than your upper half (hello those of your with super-model long legs), you might benefit from a low-rise. The lower rise will help balance out your upper and lower proportions. If you have a tummy however, it’s best to avoid a low-rise as you run the risk of a significant muffin top!

Pick the Right Style

Skinny

Straight

Bootleg

Boyfriend

Images: Shopbop.com

Skinny, straight, slim, bootleg, wide, mom, boyfriend, carrot, flared… how do you know which style is right for you? What looks fab on your favourite Insta influencers might not be best for you. Skinny was the go-to for a long time and for the last year or two more relaxed styles have become a fashion staple. So here’s the deal – when it comes to jeans, choose fit over fashion trends.

As a rule, if you’re wider through the shoulders than you are through the hips you’re best to add more volume to the bottom half. This means that if you’re an inverted triangle (carrot), more relaxed styles like mom, boyfriend, wide leg and flares are great for you. If you wear skinny jeans, you may run the risk of looking a bit top-heavy.

If you’re wider through the hips than the shoulders (pear/triangle), you want a straight style rather than clinging or tapering fits to accentuate your hips. As such, you’re best to avoid skinny, carrot fit or tapered jeans as they could make your hips look wider. The best style for you is a straight leg.

Ovals/apples can go for skinny or slim straight jeans which look great with a longer-line top or jacket. Rectangles (bananas) and hourglass body types have a bit more flexibility. Slim straight is the ideal option for you, although any of the above styles can work. It really comes down to personal preference and the cut of the individual brand/style.

If your signature style is classic, elegant or feminine, you might gravitate to a skinny, slim or straight style. If you’re boho you might prefer flares, wide, boyfriend or mom style; something with a bit more movement. If you’re alluring you might prefer skinny.

Pick the Right Length

The ideal length depends on the proportions of your upper and lower body. If you’re longer through the legs (hips to heels) than you are through your torso (top of head to hips), then you can pull off a crop style. If you’re longer through your upper body, you’re better to opt for a longer leg, which finishes right on the foot. This will help balance you. The footwear you plan on wearing with your jeans can also play a role when choosing the right length. More about this in a moment.

What About Pockets?

Unless you’re a rectangle, avoid styles with pockets that sit too low – it won’t do good things for your bum. Ideally the bottom edge of the pocket should be exactly where the glute muscle ends.

Extra large or tab pockets, or a lower yoke makes things look larger, so if that’s the effect you’re looking for go for this style. If it’s not, go for clean and simple pockets on the back and a higher yoke (yoke is the V-shape stitching on the back of jeans above the pockets).

If you’re a triangle/pear you are best to avoid tab pockets on the front. Inverted triangles/carrots, you can have more detail on your front pockets.

Dark, Light, DistresseD?

The wash you choose depends on a few things. Firstly, darker denims such as black or dark indigo are more forgiving to larger thighs and butts (hello triangles). Lighter washes can be great for those with flat bottoms and slimmer thighs (hello inverted triangles).

Secondly, darker shades are dressier than lighter or distressed washes. Black or indigo are more work-appropriate than distressed or faded denim, which I would reserve for off-duty dressing.

If you’re a triangle/pear, you also need to take into account the placement of the distressing. You want to avoid the ‘whisker effect’ across the front of the hips as this can make your hips appear wider.

Slight Distressing

White

Light

Dark

Images: Shopbop.com

The wash you prefer will also be influenced by your signature style. If your style is classic, feminine or elegant you may prefer darker washes and less distressing or rips. If you’re boho, you might like your jeans looking a bit more earthy and roughed up. Alluring types might like to show some skin through rips.

What Shoes to Wear with Jeans?

As a professional personal stylist I get this question a lot. The answer to this question depends on your vertical proportions – are your legs longer or shorter than your torso? If your legs are longer, you can wear round or square toe shoes more easily. If your legs are shorter, you’re best to go for a point toe or a platform shoe/sneaker/wedge, all of which can give you more length.

Of course jeans can be dressed up or down and the shoes you wear will depend on the occasion. Here are some ideas:

Cropped jeans are best worn with point toe heels/flats or a platform sneaker/wedge (unless you’re super tall – then you’ve got more flexibility). They can also work well with an ankle boot.
Tapered or straight leg jeans are very versatile. They can be worn with stiletto heels or rounded-toe shoes with a chunky heel. They can also be worn with flats or sneakers.
Boyfriend jeans look great with pointed-toe pumps, strappy sandals or a point-toe brogue.
Skinny or slim jeans are best for tucking into long boots and also work with ankle boots.
Bootcut jeans work well with yes, boots (worn underneath), and footwear with thick, heavy soles (eg a platform sneaker).

Jeans for Every Budget

For timeless jeans that can be worn year after year and won’t break the bank, my top pick is Levi’s. You can pick up a pair of Levi’s for $150 or less. If you prefer not to spend that much, Just Jeans have some great options for under $100. Kmart has many different styles starting at less than $10. Asos caters for every budget and offers full refunds on returns.

Agolde and Nobody are great mid-range options, available from The Iconic (who also offers full refunds on returns). Bardot and Country Road also offer a lot of variety and come in under the $150 mark.

If you’re prepared to invest a bit more AG is my top pick and Re/Done, M.I.H, Rag & Bone, Frame and J Brand are also great options. David Jones has a large selection of designer jeans, including many of these brands. Shopbop also stocks a good range of premium brands including the above, ships super-quickly from the US (a couple of days) and offers a full refund for returns.

My Top Pick

In my experience working as a stylist, there is one pair of jeans that works for the greatest number of people – the Levi’s 314 Shaping Straight jean. If you’re stumped as to where to find jeans that suit you, start by trying this pair. It comes in 5 different washes and works for most body shapes. Its cousins the 311 Shaping Skinny and 312 Shaping Slim are also pretty fab. You can thank me later 😉

Images: Levis.com.au

Footnotes:

[1]Miller, D. and Woodward, S. (2007), Manifesto for a study of denim*. Social Anthropology, 15: 335-351. doi:10.1111/j.0964-0282.2007.00024.x

[2]Cotton Incorporated. 2005. ‘Return of the dragon: post quota cotton textile trade’, Textile Consumer 36: Summer.

Business Casual – What the @#$&?

“Ambiguously defined” is what Wikipedia states about business casual, stating that, “it’s ‘more casual wear than informal wear but less casual than smart casual”. Well that makes things about as clear as… mud!!!

Gimme some tips, gimme some rules – ‘ambiguously defined’ is the last thing I want to hear when I need to understand something fast and I’m sure you’re the same. Read on for business casual outfit ideas a plenty.

Do Not Despair

Thankfully Wikipedia is not the only source of business fashion information! As a personal stylist with a few years of corporate experience under my belt, I am going to do my best to demystify the beast that is business casual dressing (a.k.a ‘biz cas’ pronounced ‘biz cazh’).

One Size Does Not Fit All

When it comes to business casual (or any style in general), the most important thing is that you find the clothing styles that feels right on you – not strictly following what I tell you just because I am a qualified personal stylist. I’m here to help, but you’re the one who has to feel authentic in what you wear.

Secondly, what is deemed appropriate depends on your industry, your company culture and your position. For example, if you’re a leader in your organisation you’ll likely place greater emphasis on a professional personal brand when choosing your outfits and may not feel comfortable wearing denim to work, even for occasions deemed ‘business casual’. However, you may be happy for your junior staff members to wear denim. If your company is progressive and innovative there is likely to be greater acceptance of more fashion-forward outfits. A more conservative organisation may call for a more traditional style of work dressing. A rule of thumb – in the first week in a new job be sure to cover up your shoulders, opt for formal trousers or knee length skirts and observe. You will get an idea of how relaxed or strict the dress code is and you can adjust your outfits accordingly.

In addition to industry, think about what is on for the day. While power dressing today is no longer about emulating your male colleagues’ looks, women still feel that different types of outfits get different results.

A friend of mine Steph, a senior specialist in the HR department of a major telecom company says, “If I’m in technical meetings, I tend to wear pants because I feel I get taken more seriously when I dress less girly. If I have meetings with executives I’ll try and emulate their style a bit because I’m usually meeting them to convince them on something, and the more they like me, the easier it is”.

Business Casual Defined – Denim Included

The business casual dress code typically means you can be more relaxed than traditional corporate suiting, but you still need to look smart and work-appropriate. For men this is relatively simple – jeans or pants with an open-neck shirt or polo and an optional blazer or sports-jacket. For women, business casual outfits is more of a grey area, so let me try to help.

Unless your company policy clearly states otherwise, business casual for women usually includes denim – with skirts, jeans, jackets given the green light. As a general rule, your denim should be free of rips, tears and significant distressing. Darker denim washes are best – either indigo or black denim are ideal.

Of course, you don’t need to opt for denim. Pants, dresses, skirts and tops are all great business casual options. Footwear can be flat or heeled, depending on your preference.

Business Casual No No’s

The main consideration is whether your outfit is ‘work appropriate’. Typically this means:

Not too short or sexy – no micro-minis, hot pants, crop tops, deep plunging necklines, bodycon lycra dresses or thigh high splits!!
Not too ripped, distressed or worn
Not too ‘undone’ – you need to look neat, tidy and pulled together – not sloppy – so take care to tuck yourself in and pick up an iron if need be (or if you’re like me and hate ironing, opt for crinkle-free fabrics!)
Not active wear – tracksuits included (unless cleverly styled with blazer & heels but even then you might be entering the grey zone)
No sneakers unless they’re a super-stylish leather pair (or unless your workplace has a super cas. vibe).

IDEAS FROM A PERSONAL STYLIST for Business Casual Dressing

For us gals, some business casual outfit combos might include:

A blazer, a t-shirt or cami tucked in to dark denim jeans or a denim skirt (not too short) with a block heel pump or point-toe ballet flat.
A flowy dress worn under a leather or denim jacket, paired with ballet flats or a heeled pump or sandal.
Wide-legged pants, a t-shirt, blouse or button-down tucked in and a point-toe heel or flat.

Of course, you need to ensure whatever business casual outfit you choose works for your body shape. If you’re unsure of your shape That Style Chick style app can help you work it out.

Image: fashionssories.com

Build a Capsule Business Casual Wardrobe

Chances are you already have pieces in your wardrobe that work well for business casual dressing – blazers, dark wash denim jeans, classic jumpers and cardigans, a button-down shirt or blouse with short or long sleeves, a pair of solid coloured slacks… chances are you only need to get an additional piece or two to complete your business casual capsule wardrobe. It’s really about creating a repertoire of ‘go-to’ outfits that you can build with these pieces, to make your life easier.

I suggest starting a business casual capsule wardrobe with the following:

6 Tops (4 in solid colours and 2 with a print)

You can wear formal or casual shirts, polos and sweaters. Avoid sheer fabrics and busy details.

You can select from a variety of colours and even go for a print. Be mindful of what your office is like – in some an animal print would be acceptable, while in others it wouldn’t match the environment.

Images: Net-a-Porter

4 Bottoms

Choose trousers and skirts that are not too form-fitting. Opt for knee-length skirts. Avoid any super-loud prints, like extra-bright florals which can be polarising. If your office allows jeans, select a pair in a darker wash, with no rips or distressing.

Images: Net-a-Porter

2 Dresses

I’m a big fan of dresses because it makes choosing an outfit so much easier! Midi length dresses with sleeves are best. My top pick is a wrap dress. Sundresses, or spaghetti-strap dresses are not as appropriate for the workplace.

Images: Net-a-Porter

2 BLAZERS/Jackets

While you should stick to classic and formal design, the fabric itself can be informal and you can play with interesting colours. My main tip here is to stay away from fashion fads – cropped, bomber, or kimono jackets are best left for other occasions, unless you work in a very progressive company. A great blazer (see My All-time Style Hero post) and a quality leather jacket are my recommendations.

Images: Net-a-Porter

2 Pairs of Shoes

Find a good pair of pointed-toe kitten heels or block heels and a pair of ballet flats in neutral tones that work with all your work outfits.

Images: Net-a-Porter

A Structured Bag

A structured bag will give the impression of someone who is pulled together and organised. It’s also great for transporting your laptop. Choose neutral or deep colours that work well with the palette of your wardrobe.

Images: Net-a-Porter

Casual Fridays

A lot of offices have the tradition of casual Fridays. It might be tempting to get really creative and fun with your outfits after a week of strict rules, but think of this day as a slightly dressed down business casual. Denim is acceptable, but don’t pair it with crop tops or t shirts with controversial slogans. While we are on the subject, why not build an outfit around a denim skirt? You can use any of the tops you have selected for your capsule wardrobe, or pair the skirt with a plain solid coloured tee and a jacket.

Images: Net-a-Porter

While there are some general rules about business casual dressing, you also have to consider your body shape and your colouring. Need some help tailoring the rules to yourself? Download That Style Chick app and get a free style consult!